When I first stumbled upon the idea that some of the most extravagant watches barely tell the time, I was both amused and intrigued. It’s like discovering a chef who spends hours crafting a dish that looks like a masterpiece but requires a manual to eat. What makes this particularly fascinating is how it challenges our fundamental understanding of what a watch is supposed to do. For centuries, watches have been utilitarian tools—simple, straightforward, and functional. But somewhere along the way, they transformed into something else entirely. Personally, I think this shift reflects a broader cultural trend: our obsession with blending art and utility, even when it means sacrificing practicality for the sake of creativity.
The Watch as a Kinetic Sculpture
One thing that immediately stands out is the work of brands like MB&F, whose Horological Machines look more like miniature sculptures than timekeeping devices. When founder Maximilian Büsser says, ‘Showing time is not the goal,’ it’s easy to dismiss it as pretentious. But if you take a step back and think about it, he’s onto something profound. Watches are no longer just about utility; they’re about emotion, craftsmanship, and the sheer joy of innovation. What many people don’t realize is that this isn’t a new phenomenon. Watchmakers have been experimenting with unconventional designs for decades, but in an age where our phones tell time with perfect accuracy, these creations feel almost defiant. It’s as if they’re saying, ‘We don’t need to be practical anymore—we can be art.’
The Fine Line Between Uniqueness and Gimmick
A detail that I find especially interesting is the concept of MAYA—‘Most Advanced Yet Acceptable.’ Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens uses this term to describe the balance between pushing boundaries and alienating users. His watches, with their orbiting discs, are a perfect example. They’re not impossible to read, but they do require a mental adjustment. This raises a deeper question: how far can you go before a watch stops being a watch? From my perspective, the answer lies in the wearer’s willingness to engage. Some collectors, like Hodinkee’s TanTan Wang, admit they’d rather admire these wild designs from afar than own them. And that’s okay—because the real value might be in the conversation they spark, not the time they tell.
Why This Matters in a World of Smartphones
What this really suggests is that watches have evolved into something far more complex than timekeepers. They’re status symbols, conversation starters, and, yes, occasionally frustrating puzzles. But here’s the thing: in a world where every device around us screams efficiency, there’s something almost rebellious about a watch that makes you pause and think. Personally, I think this is where the true appeal lies. It’s not about knowing it’s 16:07—it’s about the journey to figure it out. As Andrew Morgan puts it, once you ‘fall down the rabbit hole,’ practicality takes a backseat to artistry. And maybe that’s not such a bad thing.
The Future of Timekeeping
If you ask me, the future of watches isn’t about telling time—it’s about telling stories. Whether it’s H. Moser & Cie’s Apple Watch parody or Cartier’s surrealist dial, these designs are less about function and more about expression. What makes this particularly fascinating is how it mirrors our relationship with time itself. In a culture obsessed with productivity, these watches remind us to slow down, to appreciate the process. Sure, your phone can tell you the time in an instant, but can it make you feel something? That’s the real question.
Final Thoughts
In my opinion, the coolest watches today aren’t just accessories—they’re statements. They challenge us to rethink what we value in design, functionality, and even time itself. Yes, they might be impractical, but isn’t that the point? As Maximilian Büsser puts it, ‘We will always be giving the time,’ but the way we do it is what matters. So the next time you glance at your wrist and can’t quite tell if you’re late for dinner, don’t get frustrated. Smile. Because in that moment, you’re not just checking the time—you’re experiencing art.
